• Crane Boilers Manuals
• Crane Sunnyday Boiler Manual
• Crane Boilers Manual

InspectAPedia tolerates no conflicts of interest. We have no relationship with advertisers, products, or services discussed at this website. Manuals, parts lists, wiring diagrams for HVAC equipment: air conditioners, boilers, furnaces, heaters, etc. Free downloadable manuals for Air Conditioners, Boilers, Furnaces, Heat Pumps.

Crane Boilers Manuals

Here we provide free downloadable copies of installation and service manuals for heating, heat pump, and air conditioning equipment, or contact information for the manufacturers who can provide that information for nearly all major brands of HVAC equipment. We include links to contact information for each manufacturer or producer of these air conditioners, heat pumps, furnaces, boilers and related equipment, parts, and installation, repair, wiring diagrams, manuals. We include immediate downloads of example installation & repair manuals and wiring diagrams for air conditioners, heat pumps, and heating equipment from a variety of manufacturers as well as contact information to obtain the exact manual or wiring diagram for your unit. We also provide a to this topic, or you can try the page top or bottom as a quick way to find information you need. Try the search box below or by email if you cannot find the answer you need at InspectApedia. Questions & answers about where to get manuals, wiring diagrams, instructions, operation guides for HVAC equipment & other mechanical equipment in buildings that were previously posted in this article are now found. Ask a Question or Search InspectApedia Questions & answers or comments about where to find furnace or boiler installation and service or maintenance manuals and guides Use the 'Click to Show or Hide FAQs' link just above to see recently-posted questions, comments, replies, try the search box just below, or if you prefer, post a question or comment in the Comments box below and we will respond promptly.

Baker, 'Improving Gas Furnace Performance: A Field and Laboratory Study at End of Life L. Brand', Partnership for Advanced Residential Retrofit August 2013, retrieved 2/27/2014, original source: NOTICE Available electronically at Available for a processing fee to U.S. Department of Energy and its contractors, in paper, from: U.S. Department of Energy Office of Scientific and Technical Information P.O. Box 62 Oak Ridge, TN 37831 Tel: 865.576.8401 email: mailto:reports@adonis.osti.gov. is a licensed home inspector, past chapter president of the Hudson Valley chapter of the American Society of Home Inspectors, an educator, and building failures researcher in Kingston, NY who can be reached at or at 845-339-7984. is principal of Hankey and Brown home inspectors, Eden Prairie, MN.

Hankey is a past chairman of the ASHI Technical Committee and the ASHI Standards Committee. Hankey serves as co-chairman of ASHI legislative committee, and has served in other ASHI professional and leadership roles. Contact: 952 829-0044 -. Books & Articles on Building & Environmental Inspection, Testing, Diagnosis, & Repair. Our recommended books about building & mechanical systems design, inspection, problem diagnosis, and repair, and about indoor environment and IAQ testing, diagnosis, and cleanup are at the. Also see our. 120 Carlton Street Suite 407, Toronto ON M5A 4K2.

Tel: (416) 964-9415 1-800-268-7070 Email:. The firm provides professional & &. Alan Carson is a past president of ASHI, the American Society of Home Inspectors.

Condensate Return Systems- Weinman. Weinman Condensate Return Units are designed for the automatic return of hot water condensation from radiators and heating coils/ the delivery of those fluids to low and high pressure boilers. Cast iron or fabricated steel receivers available from 5-6 gallons. Heads To: 300 feet.

Thanks to Alan Carson and Bob Dunlop, for permission for InspectAPedia to use text excerpts from The Home Reference Book & illustrations from The Illustrated Home. Carson Dunlop Associates' provides extensive home inspection education and report writing material.

illustrates construction details and building components, a reference for owners & inspectors. Special Offer: For a 5% discount on any number of copies of the Illustrated Home purchased as a single order Enter INSPECTAILL in the order payment page 'Promo/Redemption' space. to manufacturer's model and serial number information for heating and cooling equipment, useful for determining the age of heating boilers, furnaces, water heaters is provided by Toronto - Carson Dunlop Weldon & Associates Special Offer: Carson Dunlop Associates offers InspectAPedia readers in the U.S.A. A 5% discount on any number of copies of the Technical Reference Guide purchased as a single order. Just enter INSPECTATRG in the order payment page 'Promo/Redemption' space., Carson Dunlop & Associates, Toronto, Ontario, 25th Ed., 2012, is a bound volume of more than 450 illustrated pages that assist home inspectors and home owners in the inspection and detection of problems on buildings. The text is intended as a reference guide to help building owners operate and maintain their home effectively. Field inspection worksheets are included at the back of the volume.

Special Offer: For a 10% discount on any number of copies of the Home Reference Book purchased as a single order. Enter INSPECTAHRB in the order payment page 'Promo/Redemption' space. InspectAPedia.com editor Daniel Friedman is a contributing author. Or choose the for PCs, Macs, Kindle, iPad, iPhone, or Android Smart Phones. Special Offer: For a 5% discount on any number of copies of the Home Reference eBook purchased as a single order.

Enter INSPECTAEHRB in the order payment page 'Promo/Redemption' space. Building inspection education & report writing systems from. protocol ASTM Standard E 2018-08 for Property Condition Assessments.

including home study & live classes at eleven colleges & universities. ASHI@Home Training 10-course program. Special Offer: Carson Dunlop Associates offers InspectAPedia readers in the U.S.A. A 5% discount on these courses: Enter INSPECTAHITP in the order payment page 'Promo/Redemption' space. InspectAPedia.com editor Daniel Friedman is a contributing author. manages business operations,scheduling, & inspection report writing using Carson Dunlop's knowledge base & color images.

The Horizon system runs on always-available cloud-based software for office computers, laptops, tablets, iPad, Android, & other smartphones.

Hi Guys, I have a Crane gas-fired boiler (it's a 50's house and I think the boiler is the original one). Somewhere along the line, about 20 years ago maybe, the gas valve and aquastat were replaced. The aquastat is a Honeywell and I think it may be going bad. This past Monday, I woke up to no heat because the system had shut down.

I cleaned the pilot (and drained the expansion tank while I was at it) and relit the pilot and got the system up and running again. Come Tuesday morning, no heat again. The pilot was still lit so I turned the on/off switch off and back on and it restarted and ran fine. This morning same story - no heat.

I did the same thing - reset the power and it seemed to run fine. So I came on here and started browsing the forum for information on my problem. Based on what I have read so far, I suspect that I may have a problematic aquastat.

As an ex-mechanic, I have worked on my system before and I am comfortable doing so. I currently have a new 'old stock' White Rogers 948H Limit Control in my possession. Am I correct in thinking that it is a possible replacement aquastat for my system? If it is, is there anything that I need to be aware of when I try to install it?

Hi Aramis, What model number is the Honeywell aquastat? Can you find a make/model on the gas valve? I suspect that you have a 'millivolt' system and that there is a dirty contact somewhere. Millivolt systems are fairly susceptible to very slight resistances in contacts due to the very low levels they operate.

If you can find the model number of the boiler, that might help also. I don't think the W-R limit control will replace your HW a'stat, but get us the numbers and we'll check. Can't find anything on that control. Are there any more numbers on it?

How old ya think it is? You may be able to 'fix' this problem with some contact cleaner ( De-Oxit Gold is a good one ) IF that's the problem. So don't start spraying the stuff around just yet. Hi NJ, Thanks for the response, it gave me a different perspective on the problem. The boiler is made for Crane by Bastion-Morley. Model #: 2WGA NA, Input: 165000 BTU/hr, Output: 132000BTU/hr, Working Pressure - Water: 30 lbs.

The Gas Valve is a Robertshaw-Grayson. The label faced inwards (with about 3' clearance) so I had to use a mirror to try to figure out the details. As near as I could make it, it is a 7000 8E.

Other numbers on it were: 4E4-505-516 and 9204. Also: Max 1/2 PSI, 60Hz, 12VDC 0.18 Amp, 24VAC 0.2 Amp, Non regulated. The Honeywell's label had the model number stamped in ink - it was either a L6006C, a I6006C or a 16006C - legibility was a problem. Also:.25 AMP AT.25 - 12VDC, Full load: 8.0 (120VAC), Locked Rotor: 48.0 (120VAC). Also: R-B opens, R-W closes on temp.

The White-Rodgers also had the following information - Type: 1127-2, Style: 830, also: 37-1918. I hope that this is of help to you.

By the way, where can I get that De-Oxit Gold? I wasn't able to find a ton of info on your gas valve, but I do not believe that it's a millivolt valve.

From what I can tell, it is a standard 24VAC valve. You probably won't have any luck with the contact cleaner (available at Radio Shack probably) because the 'switch' inside the L6006C HW a'stat is enclosed. You may be able to use the W-R control to replace the 6006C. They are both 'strap on surface mount' types. Here's the datasheet on the W-R Here's the sheet for the 6006C Where on the boiler is the 6006 mounted? I'm guessing that the HW 6006 has wires on the R and B terminals? I believe that there must be more controls on the boiler though.

What runs the circulator? Have you looked behind any covers on the boiler? I can't find anything on your old unit. Maybe it's time for some pictures. Do you own and know how to use a multimeter? If you can take some IN FOCUS, WELL LIGHTED, LARGE ENOUGH TO SEE DETAILS photos of all the controls you can find, upload them to a FREE account at and come back here to proved a link to your PUBLIC album.

Crane Sunnyday Boiler Manual

Make sure to stand back and take a few wide angle shots in addition to any close shots so we can relate. Download axeda desktop viewer. Thanks for the links. They were very instructive. I have a very tight schedule at work right now so I won't be able to do any pics until Saturday.

To update you on what's been happening: When I got back home on Wednesday evening, The system was off but the temperature reading on the thermostat was within 1 degree of its setting so I assumed it had shut down normally. I decided to 'play' with it so I upped the setting by 3 degrees (which would normally make it kick on) but no luck. So I went down to the boiler and turned the power off and back on and that got it running. On Thursday evening it was not running when I got home - and the temperature was 5 degrees cooler than it should have been. So I 'played' with it - this time I turned the thermostat off and back on and to my surprise that made the system kick on. And the same thing happened this Friday morning - turning the thermostat off and back on made the system kick on. Am I maybe dealing with a defective thermostat?

It's a basic Honeywell digital. As far as your other questions go - The 6006 is surface mounted on the 3' hot water pipe coming out the rear of the boiler.

The Circulator kicks on and stays on when the thermostat is active. The boiler however cycles on and off with an upper limit of about 180. There is a temperature gauge and a pressure gauge on the top of the boiler. I'll check on the wiring of the 6006 when I get home. I will also be checking and cleaning all of the wire connections - which is what I should have done long before this. Yes, I do have a multimeter but I'm very aware of the warning label on my gas valve about possibly shorting out and damaging it or the thermostat. Am I maybe dealing with a defective thermostat?

It's possible, but not that likely. Did you say you've changed the batteries in it? This is just one zone, right?

Only one thermostat? Can you find the wires coming to the boiler from the thermostat?

Follow them to see where they go. I'm betting that there's a 'relay box' somewhere, and it's possible that the relay in that box is what's giving you trouble. So hunt all around and let's try to get the big picture of what we're dealing with and we'll go from there. You will find the thermostat wired to the T T terminals in the RA89A, and the 120VAC to the pump wired to terminals 2 and 4. This is what's running the pump when the thermostat calls for heat, but there's still no indication of what's triggering the boiler to fire.

There still has to be more. Follow the wiring, try to find some connection between the thermostat and the boiler.

There has to be something that's telling the boiler to fire. Follow the wires coming from 2 and 4 in the 89. Are they going ONLY to the pump?

Here's the data on your RA89A. Looks like 1 and 3 are unused Look closer.

There is a 120VAC HOT (black) wire on terminal 1. And of course that jumper over to 3 feeds that 120 to the relay to turn on the circulator, and to power the transformer for the valve. When the system 'misses', do BOTH the circulator AND the burner not operate?

If so, then the problem is most likely with the RA89A since that is COMMON to both. If ONLY the burner doesn't fire, and the circulator ALWAYS runs on a heat call, then it's fairly certain that the 89 is OK.

Next, the BLACK wire coming off terminal 4 in the 89 is the HOT wire feeding the primary of the 24VAC transformer. Check inside the j-box that there isn't a loose connection there. On the transformer secondary, when the system misses, check the terminals with the red and white wires for 24VAC. If there is a heat call, you should ALWAYS have 24VAC there. Follow the red and white wires. I believe that you will find one going to one of the terminals on the L6006C.

Crane Boilers Manual

The other will go all the way through to the gas valve. The other terminal on the 6006 will go to the gas valve. Modern boilers will have some safety switches wired in series with the voltage to the gas valve. I doubt that yours does. These would be a 'blocked vent switch', which is usually mounted on the atmospheric vent hood on the flue. If the vent were blocked, this switch would overheat and shut down the valve. The other would be a 'flame rollout switch' which would be mounted down by the burners and would detect flames rolling out of the combustion area, due to blockage in the heat exchanger.

Like I said, I doubt you have either of these, but it is something to watch for. If you always have 24VAC at the transformer when there is a heat call, you need to trace forward and determine where you are losing the voltage. Once you find where the voltage is lost, the rest is easy. I think I finally figured it out. With a lot of help from you. As you had pointed out, when the system was 'missing', neither the circulator nor the boiler was running. I had kinda narrowed it down to the 89 because I got the circulator running one time by tapping on the relay itself.

I turned the power off and pulled that apart and found that the screws holding the contact plate to the bakelite seat assembly had worked loose, causing the plate to wobble around and not make a good contact. So I took that all apart and reassembled it to the way it should be.

Once I reinstalled it, and threw the switch, it fired up right away. Speaking as an ex-mechanic, I think that was the basic problem.

I did go ahead and order a replacement circulator relay since I figured that after 50+ years of useful life, I was pushing my luck expecting a lot more out of it. Thanks again, NJ, I couldn't have done it without your help. By focussing on the aquastat, I was heading totally in the wrong direction and would probably have ended up with a $500+ bill by replacing stuff that wasn't defective anyway. Right now it's working exactly the way it is supposed to be working. The next time I'm on that NJ Turnpike on my way to New York, I'll be the one tipping his hat to you! I'm 60+ and my wife keeps trying to tell me it's time to quit doing this and farm it out. So you hang in there!