1. Carter Carburetor Serial Numbers

Oops, not quite. The carburetor number you need is not a serial number, it is a type number, and it is not stamped on the carb base near a mounting bolt (or anywhere else). There are numbers cast into various parts of the carb, but they are casting ID numbers not useful for identifying the carburetor assembly you're looking. Carter carb type numbers are stamped on a thin aluminum tag attached to the air horn (near the top of the carb) by one of the bowl screws. This is not as good a method as Holley or Bendix/Stromberg (those makes of carburetor had the carb type number stamped into the carb itself). The Carter ID tags can get broken off or left off during a carb rebuild, and then the carb is almost impossible to identify with certainty.

Oct 29, 2016. I have a Carter Carb. On my Fergie and I don't see a rebuild kit listed for that. There are 2 numbers on the carb, one on the manifold flange 0834 and one on the bowl area on the body of the carb. I cant read any numbers on the tag. Do you know of a number for this carb. And if I can get a complete kit?

Carter Carburetor Serial Numbers

Mrmopartech's numbers are correct, though; original equipment on a '64 273 was a Carter BBD 3767 (w/manual transmission) or BBD 3768 (w/automatic transmission). The best quality mass-market kits are made by; you'd need a kit number 15284C. A much(!) more complete kit, with jets and step-up rods and other components not included in the ordinary 'gaskets and seals' type of mass market kit, can be had from. Check your carburetor's throttle body for shaft wear; you will almost certainly find it. This will spoil carburetor operation and you will need to correct it if you seek to restore new-carb levels of driveability, idle quality, performance, and fuel economy.

There's no prefab bushing to replace; this is a precision machining operation - not just a simple matter of removing a worn-out bushing and installing a new one. From the factory, the steel throttle shaft bears directly on the aluminum throttle body itself.

With use and age, the hole in the throttle body gets wallered-out (a Texas term meaning 'wallowed out') and air leaks in at the throttle shaft/body junction. The repair operation consists of carefully marking the placement and orientation of the throttle plates relative to the shaft and body, removing them, removing the shaft, overboring the throttle body, and installing and reaming bronze, brass or Delrin bushings to restore a tight fit that still permits free movement of the throttle shaft. Avira internet security 2013 key valid until 2020 raritan. It's been quite awhile since I had one of these done.

I used to patronize G&S Auto and Machine, who advertised the service in Hemmings and happened to be local to me when I lived in Denver. They charged about $35 to $45 depending on the type of carburetor, and offered fast turnaround. 303-795-1412; they may still be rebushing throttle bodies (or they may no longer exist). They were far from the only shop to do this kind of work, though; it's not a difficult service to find. Carburetor operation and repair manuals (including Carter BBD) and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted for free download. Well I finally was able to take some pictures, so hopefully from these someone can confirm for me what carburetor it is.

Driver's Side: Front: Passenger's Side: Back: We had a problem when we took it out to go and get some exhaust work done on her. I had some issue with the gas pedal, but it hadn't done anything funny before, so I gave a little push and snap.

I broke the throttle cable off of the gas pedal. Managed to get it home with a pair of pliers on the throttle cable, and at home I managed to get the throttle cable hooked back up and all seemed fine. I took the air box off the carb to get some pictures and noticed something funny - the throttle plate was just hanging there. I've attached a couple pictures of it, in one of them I'm holding the throttle plate up. Any idea what happened here? Did a spring come off when the throttle cable broke off the gas pedal?

What can I do? New throttle cable, or can I luck out with a small spring from a hardware store? If so, where does it go? Any help is MUCH appreciated, we just got insurance back on her and the girlfriend is very upset that she can't take her car out.

My carb looks very similar to this one and I was told BBD. Only difference is the odd looking thing near the top of the air horn at the firewall side. What is that? Also does it run ok with that vac line closed off on the pass side? Mine runs from there back to the dizzy cap.

I rebuilt mine this weekend with a GP Sorensen kit from our local Autozone. That kit had tons of gaskets and a new plunger.

I even got the floats from the same company. So far all seems very well. The float part number is 779-1730B and the rebuild kit is 99-129C. Hope this helps a little. That is a '64-'65 BBD with a '65 choke pull-off installed. Looks like it might have been 'remanufactured' once or twice.

Without the tag it's impossible to narrow down exactly what it came from originally (a '64 or a '65, a 273 or a 318, automatic or manual trans, etc), or if subassemblies from multiple original carbs have been thrown together to make one 'remanufactured' carb. Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted for free download. Click to expand.Yep, Carter BBD. That plate you are manipulating with your finger is the choke plate, the throttle butterflies are at the other end of the carburetor. The plate is pulled open by the vacuum dashpot at the rear of the carburetor.

The silver colored thing in the intake manifold with the rod that runs to the choke is the choke thermostat (I call it the choke coil). It is a wound spring (like a clock spring) that expands when heated and should allow the vacuum dashpot to pull the choke open as the engine warms up. It sounds like yours in frozen. The choke rod should move fairly easily. If it does not, carefully remove the choke coil from the well in the intake manifold and soak it with a penetrating oil. While the choke coil is out of the well, check to make sure the rod is securely attached to the spring. Replace the choke in the well and work the rod up and down.

It it doesn't move smoothly, it should probably be replaced.